Tunisia

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Tunisia awaits you.

((This guide is still under major reconstruction. Thanks for your patience!))

Welcome to Tunisia, a North African Arabic and Islamic country with a huge touch of French influence on the edge of the Mediterranean but with enough backwoods to be an exotic new world. When you get tired of the energetic city medinas and bustling beaches, ancient ruins and the Sahara Desert are both an arm's reach away.

For those interested in landscapes, the country's mountains, gorges, lakes, coastline, and palm tree oases should keep your camera clicking. If you like adventure, scuba diving, hiking, and water sports are certainly available. And because even the most intense travelers need a rest sometimes, atmospheric cafes are just always just around the corner for people watching.

Bon voyage and have a good time here!

Contents

CouchSurfing in Tunisia

CouchSurfing is still quite new in Tunisia but growing rapidly.

The Tunisia group is the most active group in Tunisia for now. Tunis, the capital, is the most active CS city with 36.8% of surfers (stats December 2007). Our FAQ page may answer some of your common questions: Tunisian CSer FAQ (French).

Groups

Join us to see upcoming events and meetings and to meet other CouchSurfers! As of November 2010, the Tunis weekly meetings are held every Wednesday in a centrally-located cafe.

  1. Tunisia
  2. Tunis
  3. Sousse
  4. Sfax
  5. Bizerte

Other CS Tunisia guides

  1. Tunis

Arrival

The full list of Tunisian airports is available in this link. Some of the airports are used mainly for charter/low-cost flights and then mainly during the high touristic season. To get an idea of flight prices to Tunisia, visit SkyScanner

Tunis-Carthage International Airport (TUN).

Tunis-Carthage International Airport (TUN)

The airport is located just north of the Berge du Lac neighborhood next to Tunis Lake. A taxi, best hailed from the upper floor departure hall to avoid getting swindled, should cost no more than 5D to downtown Tunis (Avenue Habib Bourguiba area) during the daytime, and no more than 10D between 9pm-5am (during which meter rates are one and a half daytime rates).

A yellow local bus stops at the upstairs departure platform about every half hour. For 470 millimes, it will take you to the western end of Avenue Habib Bourguiba, just next to the Tunis Marine TGM train station. That is, 3 minutes walk from 7 November Clock and 15 minutes walk from the medina. This is the most economic way to get between the airport and downtown.

Official airport wifi requires purchase, but connection to the public "LINDO CAFE" network from a restaurant of the same name is free.

For cheap snacks and coffee/tea in place of overpriced airport fare, walk 3 minutes straight out of the airport's bottom floor (arrivals), past the fountain, through the parking lot, and you'll find a small convenience store and cafe selling items at local prices (espresso for 700 millimes). It is next to a utilitarian car wash.

Long Layover

Considering that a taxi ride to the city center is just 15 minutes, a layover in Tunis is well worth taking advantage of. At this small airport, clearing customs takes 30-45 minutes from plane to arrival hall. This means that one with at least a 4 hour plane-to-plane layover should consider a visit to Avenue Habib Bourguiba, the medina, the 7 November clock, and an afternoon coffee.

Monastir International Airport (MIR)

A popular landing spot for a number of charter planes, mostly from Europe, it may be worth speaking to an agent while planning your trip as joining these flights can be much cheaper than flights arriving into the Tunis-Carthage airport. Note that Monastir, while a beautiful and worthy city to spend your days in Tunisia, is just 3 hours drive from Tunis (frequent and faster trains connect Sousse to Tunis). Use this airport if you are planning to stay in Sousse or Monastir.

Djerba-Zarzis International Airport (DJE)

Djerba's island airport, which is connected to many major cities in Europe, is used mainly by those who wish to spend most of their visit enjoying the sun, beaches and beauty of Djerba. It is also a good place to start visiting the east side of the Tunisian desert (with less sand dunes but more Berberian way of life).

Tozeur-Nefta International Airport (TOE)

An option for those who want a quick and easy way to reach the south and Sahara, this small airport is best accessed by domestic flights from Tunis which run around 150D roundtrip. Speaking to an agent is suggested for arranging such a flight.

Enfidha (NBE)

This is the newest and the biggest airport in Tunisia (and in Africa by 2026). Only a few charter flights land here for now, but more and more companies are planning flights from spring 2011. Transportation to/from this airport is not clear at the moment since main tourist offers include the coach transportation to the hotels on the coast. Independent travellers should plan to rent a car or contact someone local in advance for a ride.

Practical

Money

  • 1000 millimes = 1 Tunisian dinar.
  • Coins come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, and 500 millimes (the first three are essentially worthless and feel as much, since they weigh nothing), and 1 and 5 dinars.
  • Bills come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 30, and 50 dinars.
  • Currency converter

To get a sense of these costs, consider what you can buy with the following:

  1. 1D: medium bag of chips, 4 yogurts, 1.5kg tomatoes, 5 baguettes, 1-2 local bus tickets, 3 pastries, a mint tea, a soda, 2 packs of cookies, coffee in a local cafe, 2 1.5L bottles of water, 5 postcards, 1-2 stamps, 2 bars of soap, pair of scissors, 3-4 photo prints, 6 eggs, 2 malewi sandwich wraps
  2. 1-3D ($0.70-2.10USD): 1kg rice, large box of juice, 2 fruit smoothies, 1-2 sandwiches, 10min taxi ride, 3 beers, coffee in a tourist cafe, 1 ojja dish, 10-12 photo prints, 10-pack of small hotdog sausages, 15 eggs, 1-2 bottles of ketchup
  3. 3-5D ($2.10-3.50USD): nice scarf, 2hr louage ride, 6hrs internet credit, pasta dish, 15-20min taxi ride, cheap bottle of wine, sit-down lunch, 3-course prix fix dinner, large pizza, big bowl of couscous
  4. 5-10D ($3.50-7.00USD): nice bottle of wine, 2-4hr louage ride, nice sit-down dinner, 1.5kg turkey, 1.5kg octopus/squid
  5. 10-20D ($7.00-14.00USD): 4-8hr bus/train ride, stand-alone fan, 18-36 rolls of toilet paper
  6. 20-35D ($14.00-24.50USD): 8-10hr bus/train ride, cheap 1-2 person tent, 1/2 day agency tour, 1-2 shirts from a store, pair of jeans

Language

Arabic is the most practical and functional language spoken in Tunisia, although French is also very widely used. Knowledge of either will be more than sufficient in 95% of situations. English is more or less available in the cities, and usually with youth or those involved with tourists on a regular basis. The further South or West you go (with relation to Tunis), the less English will be prevalent.

For someone arriving knowing not a single word of Arabic nor French upon arrival, the typical mix of hand motions will pleasantly suffice.

The ancient Berber language is spoken more and more as one heads further south.

Phones

  • Country code - 216

The major mobile phone providers are listed below. Initial SIM cards with credit cost roughly 5D. Credit refill cards may be purchased at almost any small convenience store in town. While the cards usually come in denominations of 5 dinars, it is also possible to buy in irregular amounts (e.g. 1.200 dinars) and transfer credit from one phone to another. Ask a local or the vendor for more information.

  1. Orange
  2. Tunisie Telecom
  3. Tunisiana 
Domestic calls per minute
 160 millimes to another Tunisiana mobile
 225 millimes to a mobile of another carrier

SMS/Text messaging (each)
  50 millimes local
  150 millimes abroad
MMS/Photo messaging (each):
  180 millimes local
  640 millimes abroad
Mobile Internet
  4 millimes per kilobyte (billed in increments of 16kb)

International calls
 Zone 1: Arab Maghreb States (Algeria, Libya, Mauritania, Morocco, Tunisia)
   380 millimes per minute
 Zone 2: Belgium, France, Italy, United Kingdom
   400-540 millimes per minute
 Zone 3: Europe, Middle East, North America and Australia
   540 millimes per minute
 Zone 4: Africa and East Asia
   660 millimes per minute
 Zone 5: Rest of World
   800 millimes per minute

Public Transportation

Louage

A typical louage station.

These shared taxis are the most flexible of all options and go to far more places than bus or train will access. While louages leave immediately when filled with passengers and are faster, buses are very useful when visiting something halfway along a route as louages make you pay the fare for the full distance. Louage stations are typically and conveniently just around the corner, in the same parking lot, or across the street from the town's bus station. The red-striped minivans with 8 passenger seats take off when they are full and therefore run on no particular schedule. Though prices tend to be a little bit higher than buses, the difference is negligible. Tunis has 3 louage stations: 2 in the south, 1 in the north. The 2 southern ones are in Moncef Bey and go to places such as Kairouan and Sousse, and the other is in Bab Alioua which takes you to Hammamet, Cap Bon, etc. The northern station is in Bab Saadoun which takes you to places like Bizerte, Tabarka, and the west.

Bus

Societe Nationale de Transport Interurbain (SNTI) is the national bus line. Although schedules are more flexible and reach more locations than by train, prices are usually similar. Seats are guaranteed with purchase of a ticket. Tunis has 2 bus stations: North (in Bab Saadoun) and South (in Bab El Falah). Visit http://www.sntri.com.tn for more on schedules and fares.

Train

Societe Nationale des Chemins de Fer Tunisiens (SNCFT) is the national train company for long distance travel between large cities. This is arguably the most comfortable of travel options especially for long distance trips although seats are not guaranteed despite purchase of a ticket, so arrive. Visit http://www.sncft.com.tn for more details on schedules and fares.

Taxi

In Tunis, taxis are metered. Most drivers will give you an honest ride, but the shady ones may argue that prices are negotiated ahead of time (which they're not), or fumble with the meter. To avoid getting ripped off,

  1. Insist that the meter is turned on.
  2. Remember that the sit-down fee is 400 millimes, and prices ring up in increments of 30 millimes.
  3. Note that between 9pm and 5am, prices are doubled. Check that a "2" is marked on the meter at night, "1" during the day.
  4. A 5km/4 mile trip costs 3-3.500D.

In smaller towns, prices may be appropriately negotiated.

Where to Go

Prices and travel times listed are one-way fares from Tunis and accurate as of November 2010. Time to spend in each location are merely suggested minimums.

The Capital and its Suburbs

  • Carthage - 680 millimes TGM train; 1 day suggested. (unknown for students), 9D general admittance pass allows entrance to all the sites. The Carthage Hannibal stop is the most central. The sites are largely spread apart, so much of your time will be spent walking between them. The Antoine Baths is the most dramatic, the view on top of Byrsa Hill in front of the Carthage Museum offers the best vistas, the Roman Villas are impressive too, and the Amphitheater is a great place to rest for a snack. On a side note, many of Tunisia's richest and most powerful bourgeois society reside in Carthage, including President Ben Ali. Google Maps
  • La Marsa - 680 millimes TGM train; 1/2 day suggested. At the last stop of the TGM train, La Marsa is a default favorite place to spend an afternoon at the beach while staying close to the city. Try some gelato or ice cream, especially at the shop just around the corner from the tran station that is always filled with sugar-hungry people. The small "boardwalk" above the beach, lined with shops and restaurants, is also a popular hangout spot. Google Maps
  • Sidi Bou Said
    Sidi Bou Said's white and blue accents along the sea are sure to calm every last nerve in your body.
    - 680 millimes TGM train; 1/2 day suggested. Sidi Bou Said is Tunisia's spokesperson for its Mediterranean roots. By law, its buildings must feature the blue and white theme so popular in the country's promotional materials. Walk out of the train station and turn right at the mosque to reach the beach at the bottom; turn left up the hill for souvenirs and unforgettable landscape views of Carthage and Tunis. The main road, usually bustling with busloads of tourists, is fun indeed, but venture into the side streets for a treat. Try bumbaloni, a fried donut coated with sugar, for 500 millimes. Google Maps

Ancient Ruins

  • Bulla Regia
    The serene and inspiring ruins of Bulla Regia.
    - 9D louage to Jendouba, then a 3D taxi ride to site entrance; 3-4 hours suggested. Free for ISIC student card holders, 5D general admittance. This site, just 1.5 hours south of Tabarka, has a more subdued visual impact. When you first arrive, you will likely be more struck by the barren landscape than the ruins. However, when you begin to walk, you will see that the best of what Bulla Regia has to offer is all underground. Grand rooms, columns, and mosaics can be accessed by venturing downward. Many parts are still being excavated. The groundskeeper may invite himself along as your guide; the details you may otherwise miss is well worth the small tip of 1-2D he expects.
  • Dougga
    The Capitol at Dougga.
    - 5.7D louage takes you to Teboursouk, arrange for a driver for a return trip to the site entrance for no more than 5D per person; 3-4 hours suggested. Free for ISIC student card holders, 5D general admittance. Although there is a small snack and souvenir shop at the site, it is best to bring along your own food, snacks, and drinks or buy some in Teboursouk. In this open region, shade is hard to come by (although, sitting in the shadows of the giant columns is highly recommended!), so in the summer, be sure to bring a scarf or hat for refuge from the beating sun. In colder temperatures, bring along a jacket and scarf to fend off wind. Google Maps
  • Kerkouane - 680 millimes bus from El Haouraria, 520 millimes bus from Kelibia; 2 hours suggested. Free for ISIC student card holders, 5D general admittance. These ruins are far from the dramatic cries echoing from other locales such as Dougga and Sbeitla, but there is something to be said for the maze-like outlines left by the building bases and its unique setting hugging the water. It is also unique in that you cannot walk on top of the ruins and information posts (in multiple languages!) actually exist. There is a neat and organized museum across the path from the ticket office, gift shop, and clean bathrooms. Many Cap Bon tours will stop here so arrive before noon to have the place to yourself. It's a nice place and very much worth a stop if you're in the area, but probably not worth a special direct trip. Google Maps

Beaches and the Coast

Cap Bon (northeast)

  • El Haouraria/Hawaria
    In Haouraria at the tip of Cap Bon where lies the cozy town of traditional families, you'll feel yourself at the ends of the earth.
    - 5.5D louage, 5D per person taxi from Kelibia; 1 day suggested. Depart early from Tunis because the last louage back to the capital is around 3-4pm. Walk uphill when you arrive, veering to the right until you are welcomed with a view of the sea cliffs. Another way to orient yourself is to ask for the grottos. Ponder the spiky old sea floor you’re now walking on, as Haouraria used to be underwater. To the left you will see white electric wind mills, and to the right, dramatic mountainside cliffs dominate the view. The edge of the water is where the underground caves/grottos are, once used by Phoenecians and Romans alike. Google Maps
  • Hammamet - 1hr; 1 day suggested. Hammamet is Tunisia's most famous and best catered resort and vacation spot. It is a popular European getaway (mostly for the French, Italian, and Spanish) and has all the air-conditioned facilities and kitschy souvenirs you need. Yasmine Hammamet lie the majority of the big hotels and tour agencies. A short taxi ride to the east will bring you to the kasbah and more local beaches though both are visibly influenced by tourism. The Hammamet Cultural Center (free for ISIC student card holders, 5D general admittance) houses an old traditional bourgeois home where even Winston Churchill once spent some time. On the grounds is also a small amphitheater and garden from which you can make way down to the refreshingly quiet and barren beach below. Even on a budget, fun can be had in Hammamet by simply eating sandwiches and chilling on the beach all afternoon. Google Maps
  • Kelibia - 5.85D louage, 3.1D bus/5D per person taxi from El Haouraria, 1 day suggested. The old fort (4D entrance) is worth a look but nothing too special. The landscape view from top is quite beautiful, and on a perfect day the slight outline of Italy can be seen on the horizon. Walk to beach El Mansourah to pass the afternoon, but for a view that will more than pay off, walk the 1km along the coast away from the fort. You’ll soon run into perfect white sand dunes and virgin beach as far as the eye can see and Mediterranean as blue as can be. Be careful of small jellyfish in September. Google Maps
  • Korbous
    Hot mountain springs and hammams make Korbous a popular weekend getaway from Tunis.
    - 2.5D louage to Soliman, then a 1.5D louage transfer to Korbous; 1 day suggested. The gorgeous mountainside drive into Korbous is half the fun. Town itself is small with just 1 road; the real fun lies at the sulfurous hot mountain spring within a 15 minute walk of town, and it’s free! After that, walk back to town to enjoy a hammam scrub, definitely an experience for a first timer. Separated by gender, the cheapest for both men and women in Korbous is 2D with no time limit. However, 1 to 2 hours is suggested, as the extreme heat and steam will surely exhaust. Bring (or cheaply buy in town) a mitten scrub pad, hair brushes, soap, shampoo, and/or a towel. Google Maps
  • Nabeul - 4.1D bus, 1hr; 1/2 day suggested. Just a few kilometers and a reasonable taxi ride from the touristy behemoth of Hammamet, Nabeul can be a great escape from the others. It is known as a pottery epicenter of Tunisia and selection and prices are well set up. The souks down Avenue Hached and the adjoining Rue el Arbi Zarrouk is where most visitors go for their souvenirs; you can find goods to match your every budget. Google Maps

Cap Blanc (north/northwest)

  • Bizerte
    Old world charm at Bizerte's traditional boat port.
    - 4.2D louage, 1hr; 1/2-1 days suggested. Instead of taking a taxi to the centre ville town center, walk along the main road when you step out of the bus or louage and walk across the bridge. Veer diagonally to the right to see some local grocery markets and end up at the picturesque boat port. The total walk time between the bus/louage station and the old port is about 35 minutes. The small kasbah can also be visited at the corner of the port, and in the summer, enjoy a mint tea or citronade on the promenade while watching young boys enthusiastically and daringly jumping into the water. The beaches can be found to the East. Google Maps
  • Cap Serrat - Pristine and local beaches between Bizerte and Tabarka uncommonly visited by foreigners. Google Maps
  • Gammarth - 10D taxi; 1/2 day suggested. Only accessible by taxi in terms of public transportation, come to Gammarth to mingle with Tunis' upper class elite and foreign expatriates (most of whom hang out at the ritzy hip Plaza Corniche restaurant/bar in the evenings). The hotels here are the best the capital has to offer and its high location offers sweeping coastal views of La Marsa, Sidi Bou Said, and Carthage below it. Google Maps
  • Raf Raf - 3.6D louage; 1/2-1 days suggested. Don't fall asleep as the drive in is a sight to behold. As you wind downward, treat your eyes with the golden island just off the coast and the lush greenery coating the mountainside. A hike to either the far, far left or right of the beach's curve will be very worthy of your time. Often considered one of the best beaches in Tunisia, Raf Raf gives you what you want without any of the hassles of mass visitors. Google Maps
  • Sidi Ali el-Mekki - Just past the sleepy village of Ghar el Melh and a bit difficult to reach without personal transportation, Sidi Ali el-Mekki is a great hiking spot along a rugged but lush and flower-filled coastline with discoveries to be made such as abandoned World War II bunkers and ancient Roman quarries. The gorgeous hike has been compared to the French island of Corsica by some. It has also been considered one of the top beach spots in the country. Google Maps
  • Tabarka - 10D louage, 3hr; 1/2 day recommended. Stay awake for the ride between Tunis and Tabarka if you're into rolling hills and vast plains landscapes. As a Tunisian vacation spot, Tabarka retains its small town charm while adapting to the crowds that visit in the summer. Visit Les Aiguilles, a set of natural Salvador Dali-esque pointed rocks along the beach boardwalk. The fort at the top of the hill is beautiful but closed to the public. Meander around the port and maybe grab a drink while people watching. Google Maps

The Eastern Coast

  • Djerba Island
    A sunset on Djerba where, according to the ancient Greek poem The Odyssey, Homer and his men were lured by the lotus eaters to stay there forever.
    - 26.75D train to Houmt Souk, which includes the ferry crossing; 2-3 days suggested. Google Maps
  • Kerkennah Islands - 12.5D train to Sfax, 650 millimes for the ferry crossing, then 1.5D louage to Remla; 1-2 days suggested. Google Maps

The South

  • Douz
    The quiet but stunning dunes of the Sahara Desert outside of Douz.
    - Tunisia's gateway to the Sahara. Here is where most people choose their agencies and book their excursion of choice into the desert. A small town fueled by tourism, it is both commercialized as well as charming in its own right. Walk through the palmerie to see acres and acres of dates and pomagranate bushes. Choose an agency, any agency, for an outing. An overnight camel excursion should cost 35-55D, an hour on a quad should cost 60-80D. The 20 Mars Hotel and Nefzaoua Voyages Tours that run out of it are much recommended. Google Maps
  • Gabes - 19.62D bus. At the end of the Tunis train line, it is a residential and commercial hub. Most visitors come here only to use other options to hop further south. Google Maps
  • Matmata - from Gabes, 1.5D louage to Matmata Nouveau, then 1D louage to Matmata; 2-3hrs suggested. Avoid hiring a guide because there's nothing they will show you that you won't find by wandering around for yourself. Enjoy the ride in past the red sand vasts and troglodyte homes that peek out of the ground like gopher mounds. Stepping out of the louage, ask for the Sidi Driss Hotel where one of the Star Wars was filmed. Then just explore the grounds, being careful not to fall into any of the home dug-outs. Walk up the road towards Gabes for a lookout point featuring the Tunisian farmland expanse. Google Maps
  • Metlaoui - The touristy but well-worth-it Red Lizard Train runs out of here at 10am every morning. As it winds through the mountain tunnels, prepare for a neck ache as you stare upwards to view the natural wonders. Google Maps
  • Tozeur
    The great salt lake, Chott El-Jerid, on a rare day filled with water. It otherwise sits dry for most of the year, and mirages can be seen on a hot day. Between Douz and Tozeur.
    - 20.1D train; 1/2-1 days suggested. Take note of the brick architecture which is unique to the region. For most visitors, Tozeur is mainly a good base for visiting the nearby mountain oases (35-60D for 1/2-1 day using an agency, but easy to independently arrange also). Handfuls of tour agencies dot the zone turistique on Avenue Habib Bourguiba. They can arrange trips between 1/2 day to a few days spanning into the Sahara and more. Find cheap campgrounds or bungalows at Camping Les Beaux Reves (bungalows for 12D/person/night) or the more beautiful but further situated Camping Belvedere (bungalows for 8-10D/person/night), both of which are also along Avenue Habib Bourguiba. A walk among the palmerie in this oasis town is recommended, and a sunset at the Belvedere Rocks is worth a look if you're in the area. Haggle properly for a ride on the bumpy horse carriages. The old city has your typical Tunisian shops and restaurants. A taxi ride to the mystic Chott El-Jerid salt lake can be arranged for about 30D. Google Maps
    • Chebika - Waterfalls, palm trees, and beautiful mountain landscapes here complete the mountain oases trio. Go by tour, or arrive much cheaper by louage from Tamerza or Mides. Google Maps
    • Tamerza
      The trio of mountain oases of Chebika, Tamerza, and Mides offer breathtaking view of the borderland mountains, canyons, and gorges.
      - 27D bus to Tunis' south station; leaves nightly at 9:30pm (the only one of the oases served by transport to Tunis). Google Maps
    • Mides - An old abandoned village and dramatic mountain gorges make this town very worthwhile. Go by tour, or arrive much cheaper by louage from Tamerza or Chebika. Google Maps

The West

  • Ain Draham - 11.47D bus, 4hr; 1/2 day suggested. Your first sight of the cute red roofed but otherwise whitewashed town right next to the Algerian border will be sure to capture your attention. It Is has a distinctive French look to it because it was initially conceived as a copy of the French resorts in the Alps. There is not much to do in the town itself but it is a good base for hiking and camping in the adjacent mountains and other outdoor activities. A walk up Jebel Biri, the Kroumirie Mountain’s highest peak, will grant you glorious views of the town as well as Tabarka and the sea 30km to the north. Watch out for snow in the winter. Google Maps
  • Le Kef - 10.030D bus, 3hr; 1 day suggested. Just shortly west is Hammam Mellegue, a 1800-year-old bathhouse next to a slow muddy river (though beautiful in the spring) is still a popular local spot believed to cure the most sickly. Barrage Mellegue a short drive to the north is the source of the largest lake nearby. These areas outside of Kef are fantastic for hiking, especially in the spring when the weather is temperate. Google Maps

The Center

  • Sousse - 7.65D train, 8.61D bus, 2-2.5hr; 1 day suggested. Google Maps

Entrance Fees

Prices accurate as of June 2011.

  • Carthage Cutural Center - free for ISIC student card holders, 5D general admittance
  • Carthage ruins blanket pass - free for ISIC student card holders, 9D general admittance
  • Fort Ghazi Mustapha (Houmt Souk, Djerba) - free for ISIC student card holders, 5D general admittance
  • Fort in Kelibia - free for ISIC student card holders, 4D general admittance
  • Djerba Explore - 12D gives you access to a well-organized and modern museum, 400+ Nile crocodile farm, and interactive Berber village
  • Djerba pirate ship excursion - 20D gives you 6-7 hours of a ship ride to a narrow, virgin peninsula, a filling Tunisian buffet lunch, and a pleasant ride back to the port in Houmt Souk
  • Kairouan sites blanket pass - free for ISIC student card holders, 9D general admittance
  • Zitouna Mosque (Tunis) - (unknown for students), 4D general admittance

Hiking and Nature

Given the diverse terrain of Tunisia, it is no wonder that hiking enthusiasts will be welcome with open, spectacular arms and views. Whether you prefer coastal scenes of the sparking blue Mediterranean or dramatic canyons and mountains in the heart of the country, bring your camera along because you won't want to forget what you've seen.

  • Jugurtha's Table
    The miraculous views atop Jugurtha's Table of the Tunisian and Algerian plains are not to be held in low regard.
    - look into the heart of Algeria from the comfort of the Tunisian clouds
  • Between Tamerza and Mides (3-4hr return) or Chebika (4-5hr return) - endless kilometers of striking mountainous landscape, waterfalls, and palm tree oases
  • through Le Kef's surrounding lands that seem to extend forever, vibrant green in the spring and scorched dry in the summer
  • Kelibia's El Mansourah beach - virgin, white-sand beaches with nary a soul to contaminate your photos
  • El Haouraria's coastline - red cliffs, underground caves, and a shipwreck will inspire the imagination of kids and kidults alike
  • Lake Ichkeul National Park - Tunisia's national parks are not typically so graceful. The land of Lake Ichkeul, a mecca for thousands of species of birds in the early spring, is a refreshing reminder that uncontaminated nature still exists in the country. Hike alone the trodden paths, popular with families on the weekend, and take a sip from the mountain sources dripping all around. The panoramas seen from various viewpoints are quite delightful. A dated but good-intentioned environmental preservation and appreciation museum is also free for your enjoyment.
  • Raf Raf - enjoy the curvaceous beach and allow the distant orange rock island serve as your buddy
  • Sidi Ali el-Mekki - a savage edge favored by locals and those who took time to seek it out

Eat & Drink

  • Ojja (4D)
    Salade mechoia, couscous, ojja, more mechoia, and brik are just a few of the delicious fares Tunisia has to offer.
    - tasty simmered seasoned tomato sauce with onions, merguez (sausage), peppers, and others; often served in dishes big enough for 2; dip with bread
  • Fricase (300 millimes) - fried dough bun with eggs, harissa, and tuna; a very cheap street snack
  • Lablabi (2D) - a popular winter offering
  • Chorba (1-2D) - delicious red soup with small chunks of meat and pasta bits
  • Malewi (1-2D) - tortilla wrap sandwich
  • Harissa - spicy red sauce ranging from mild to fiery hot that is applied to many meals by default unless specified beforehand
  • Couscous (3.5D+)
  • Brik (1-2D) - very crispy thin savory pastry with a liquidy egg base plus onions, harissa, and meat of choice, typically tuna; eat with your hands or prepared to be laughed at
  • Tajine (2D) - egg omelet; entirely different from Moroccan tajine
  • Salade mechoia (2D) - grilled pepper, tomato, and onion dipped with bread
  • Salade tunisienne (2D) - chopped salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, and olive oil
  • Baguettes (200 millimes)
  • Mint tea (500 millimes - 1.5D)
    Take some time off at a cafe to enjoy a hot mint tea or cafe au lait.
    - syrupy sweet tea surprisingly refreshing even on a blazing hot summer afternoon
  • Chicha/water pipe/hookah - typically regular tobacco flavor or apple

For reviews of some nicer, mid-high budget restaurants around Tunis as well as distributed throughout the country, visit Resto Tunisie (French).

Seasonal Fruits

It's a wonder that Tunisia's extensive seasonal fruit portfolio is not more marketed and publicized. Not least because of the country's small size, the variety of its fruit repertoire throughout the year is nothing short of impressive. Pay a visit a local market and you will be presented with so many colors and tastes that you won't know what to do with yourself. Best of all, seasonal fruits run in the gamut of just around 1 dinar per kilogram!

  • July-September: watermelon, peaches, flat peaches, pears, plums, kiwi
  • September-late October: pomegranates
  • November-May: mandarin oranges, strawberries
  • May - June: nectarines, apples, bananas

Nightlife

If you're looking for some hot nightlife and clubbing, Tunisia is not your place.

It is a highly Islamic country which means that sometimes even the nicest tourist restaurants don't serve alcohol. Alcohol in establishments is best found in high-traffic tourist areas such as the La Marsa and Gammarth suburbs of Tunis, and resorts such as Hammamet. Even then, alcohol can be quite expensive compared to the cost of typical goods. Think 2.5-5D for a beer in a restaurant/hotel/bar. You can find cheaper alcohol in the larger Monoprix, Carrefour, and Magasin General grocery stores.

Forget "normal" Western social conventions when it comes to mingling boys and girls. While mixing of genders is certainly not as restrictive as in the more traditional Arabic countries, you'll find that most people stick to those they arrived with. Dancing is also observed curiously by wallflowers though sometimes people will start swaying their hips next to their dinner table after they've knocked down a few beers.

For the most happening spots on the weekend, head to the suburbs of La Marsa, Menzah, Ariana, or Soukra to get your dance on.

The People, Attitudes, & Respect

Tunisians can be some of the absolutely nicest, most generous, and humble people on earth. You can even say that the society often functions as a socialist unit at times where neighbors fiercely protect each other and visitors often at the same level if not more. They take pride in their country, for better or for worse, and are always ready to lend a hand. Relationships, forged through banter and jokes, are essential to any negotiations whether you are in the souk or the workplace.

However, of all criticisms, the ones about sexual harassment by the country's population of willing, curious, and often aggressive men towards women are the most common.

Foreigners

In souks, markets, and other establishments, most people are, more than anything, curious about your origins especially if you look obviously foreign. They'll try to guess your homeland; don't be offended when the guesses are wrong though it might get hair-pullingly annoying. Small children may touch your hair or skin at times as well, and say goodbye with kisses on your cheek; feel free to kiss back.

Religion

Islamic but not overly devout or extremist. On the one hand, you'll find those who go pray at the mosque every Friday, give alms to the poor, and always happy to share with you their knowledge of Islamic history. On the other, many will claim themselves as good Muslims despite drinking alcohol, not partaking in Ramadan, engaging in pre-marital relations, and more. Respect the traditions and rituals but take it with a grain of salt.

  • Ramadan - When is it this year? The most religious period in Islam takes place for an entire month every year. It is a time when Muslims reflect on themselves, their relationship with Allah (God), and renew their devotion and dedication to their beliefs. In Tunisia, while most restaurants and establishments are closed during the day for the population's daily fasts from sun up to sun down, it is still quite easy to find any water or food that you need in the few that stay open. Particularly in the high heat of summer, even the largest cities such as Tunis may recoil into something like sleepy, deserted, post-apocalyptic villages. Public transportation and services run limited hours and should not be depended upon around the sunset hours. However, after dark, every city and town in the country erupts with festive socializing and feasts between families and friends. Join in the celebrations!

Boys vs Girls

"Women should stay in the home because it is safer for them." - local men.

Tunisia is a very male-dominated society. Throw in different education standards and you'll be sure to face some interesting situations. The thousands of outdoor cafes may look cozy but have a de jure rule for being men only (you can tell if there are hoards of only men out front). Men have all the convenience of freedom and none of the worries.

If you are a woman, don't venture into cafes if you don't see another female; patron a defined Salon de Te instead. Dress conservatively (though not necessarily as much as needed in countries such as Saudi Arabia or even Egypt) or expect to be catcalled endlessly or even touched, though this is rare. Walking around after dark in non-main areas and you'll also be harassed with stares at best. If a Tunisian man approaches you on the street, it is more than likely he's not just looking for a friend. Handing out your phone number or Facebook contact information is not usually perceived as casual or simply friendly a gesture as it may be back home. In Tunisia, you will never forget your status as a woman.

Mingling of the genders is awkward yet becoming more accepted due to outlets such as school/university and Facebook. Always give cheek kiss greetings, never hugs which are considered a next level of affection.

Trash & Pollution

As in many developing countries, it's hard to focus on larger scale concepts such as the environment when putting food on the table or getting to work on time are much higher priorities. Rubbish is not thought of twice after being thrown on the ground, which you'll see in piles anywhere from the city streets, beaches, ruins sites, mall escalators, airports, next to trashcans, in front of homes, to the landscape spots that would otherwise be exponentially more scenic if there weren't snack food wrappers and water bottles all around. A common public mascot is a desert fox character dressed in a blue jumpsuit which stands for environmental conscientiousness. Still, the general population holds an "out of sight, out of mind" attitude to pollution and littering.

Family

Like most countries and societies around the world, if there's anything people care about at the end of the day, it's family. The generosity of the Tunisian people is often shown through food and joking. It is not rare for a single traveler to be invited overnight to a home and dinner along the way. If you feel your host is trustworthy, the experience is highly suggested. Mother will make (and teach) you the ways of her kitchen, grandparents will politely smile, and siblings will take you in as their own.

Safety

There are rocks in every society. Typically, the worst you will encounter is getting ripped off left and right, either from "rounding down" when returning change or outright charging you. If you are a woman, catcalls, light stalking, and staring will become normal. Pickpocketing is possible but rare, and muggings rarer still.

As always, maintain common travel sense and you should be fine. The good people always outnumber the bad ones.

Emergency Information

Revolution and Unrest

On January 14, 2011, the capital rose up in a fury against the 23-year reigned ex-president Zine El Abidine Ben Ali. The day ended with Ben Ali leaving the country, never to return, and sparking uprisings all along the Maghreb region and Middle Eastern world. Throughout February and early March, some small demonstrations would erupt from time to time but never to the same caliber as that January day.

Within Tunis the capital, if there are any demonstrations, they usually take place in the Kasbah (western corner of the medina where the municipal buildings stand), along Avenue Habib Bourguiba particularly in front of the Ministry of the Interior towards the 7 November clock, and up Avenue de Liberte.

As of June 2011, life is back to normal so there is not much to worry about on a daily basis. The occasional strike of rubbish collectors or communications maintenance employees may manifest, but there has not been any real need for alarm. Transportation between cities and regions are also back to normal.

Still, keep an eye on the news at Google News for example, as despite it all, the country is still in a somewhat fragile state as it begins to redefine its political structure. The original scheduled date for new democratic elections was July 23, 2011. However, this date has been pushed back until October 23, 2011 as it stands in June. This period should be considered with caution.

Employment

An estimated 15% of the population is unemployed and many more survive on meager jobs. And as more and more of the new generation earn degrees predominantly in business, computer science, and engineering, those industries are getting saturated as well. For a foreigner, functional knowledge of Arabic and/or French will aid you well, and your likeliest bet for finding a job will be somewhere who has needs for your national language too. While pick-up restaurant and handyman jobs are common in other countries, these positions are much less likely to present themselves in Tunisia because of local competition. Safest is to arrange for a job before arrival.

Weather

Helpful Links

Visit the following links for more information about Tunisia.

  1. Wikipedia
  2. Wikipedia: List of cities
  3. WikiTravel
  4. LookLex Tunisia
  5. Lonely Planet Thorn Tree forum
  6. Lonely Planet
  7. Rough Guide
  8. CIA World Factbook
  9. The Africa Guide
  10. The Guardian (UK)
  11. World Travel Guide
  12. New York Times (USA)
  13. US State Department Tunisia consular information sheet
  14. French government Tunisia consular information sheet
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