Tokyo

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A busy street near Akasaka Station

"It's Big and Modern... and everything beeps a lot"

Tokyo is the capital of Japan and the core of CS Japan. It is the largest metropolitan area in the world, but it is internationally recognized as safe, particularly for travelers. The CS Tokyo Group is active with gatherings almost every week. With a network of highly efficient trains and subways, Tokyo keeps people on the move, both in and out of the city, so there are always new people to meet.

Contents

CouchSurfing in Tokyo

Living spaces in Japan are generally small, particularly in cities as crowded as Tokyo. It is not common to be invited into a Japanese home, let alone stay the night. However, there are still many CSers - both Japanese and foreign residents - willing to share their couch and even more who are willing to meet up or show you around. Do keep living conditions in mind if you do find a couch in the city; don't be surprised if you share the floor with your host or other CSers.

CS in the greater Tokyo area

Tokyo proper is not very big (only 621.9 km2), but the metropolitan area is sprawling and massive. If you have trouble finding a couch to surf in the city center, try searching for couches in the surrounding area. Four of the cities are within 30-40 minutes of Tokyo - Yokohama, Kawasaki, Saitama City, and Chiba City - each have over a million people and many CSers. Try not to be discouraged if you stay further from the city. It will certainly give you a good sense of the life of millions of commuters in the greater Tokyo area! And you’ll get to see more than just Tokyo proper.

  • To the west is the Tokyo-to. Check Hachioji and Machida for the larger centers. Kichijoji is the most popular destination for travelers heading into western Tokyo.
  • To the east is Chiba prefecture, which is where you’ll be if flying in internationally (Narita Airport). Narita city is worth a visit itself. Cities in Chiba near Tokyo include Maihama/Urayasu (where Tokyo Disney Resort is located), Ichikawa and Funabashi, among others.
  • To the south is Kanagawa prefecture, which includes Yokohama (famous for Chinatown and Minato Mirai and Shin-Yokahama Ramen Museum), Kawasaki and the old capital of Kamakura. Commuters in Kanagawa have very easy and quick access to Shinjuku and Tokyo stations.
  • To the north is Saitama prefecture, home of the John Lennon Museum and Omiya Bonsai Village. Omiya (in Saitama City) is a major hub and has very quick access to Ikebukuro and Ueno stations in Tokyo.

Alternative Accommodation

There are many expensive hotels around Tokyo, so hostels are a good choice for travelers on a budget. The area for hostels is around Asakusa, on the east side of Tokyo. Some suggestions include:

Also you can stay for very cheap in Internet Cafes all over Japan. See the Internet Cafe section of the Japan country page for more information.

Regular gatherings

Currently there are regular gatherings in Takadanobaba organized by Philip C. To find out about the next one, join the Tokyo group and check the listing (e.g. link).

Transportation

Links to transit planning websites can be found in the Transit Planning section of the Japan country page. Additional maps and websites are linked to below as necessary.

International

Airports – Tokyo is serviced mainly by Narita International Airport in Chiba prefecture. Haneda International Airport also services some flights to and from Seoul, Shanghai, and Hong Kong. Note: If you want to stopover in Tokyo on a Japan Airlines flight, you have a maximum of 7 days.

Airports to Tokyo - There are a few choices from Narita into the city. They are listed here by price and final destination. Please check the sites for additional stops and pricing info. See below for Haneda access info.

Train Line Final Stop Price (yen) Time (approx.) Seat1
Keisei Limited Express Keisei Ueno
1000
75min
U
JR Sobu Rapid / Airport Narita2 Tokyo
1280
84min
U
Keisei Skyliner Keisei Ueno
1920
60min
R
Airport Limousine (Bus) Multiple
3000
80-110
R
JR Narita Express (N'EX)2 Tokyo
2940 / 44303
65min
R
Shinjuku
3110 / 46003
85min

1 R = Reserved U = Unreserved, 2 Valid for JR Rail Pass use, 3 First class

NOTE: The cheapest way from Narita Airport to Shinjuku costs 1190 yen and takes about 1 hour, 40 min. Take the Keisei Limited Express to Nippori Station (70 min., 1000 yen) and change to the JR Yamanote Line bound for Ikebukuro, Shinjuku (21 min., 190 yen).

National

  • By Plane – Haneda Airport is Tokyo’s domestic airport, located on Tokyo Bay and significantly closer to the city than Narita Airport. Haneda Airport access information
  • By Bus – Most buses in to Tokyo arrive at Shinjuku station’s west exit (in Nishi-Shinjuku). There are many discount bus tickets available on websites in both Japanese and English. Buses arrive from and depart to destinations all over the country. Check out Japan-Guide's national bus service info and 123 Bus for discount bus tickets.
  • By Ferry – There are a few ferries to connect you to Tokyo from other parts of Japan. Check out Japan-Guide's ferry info for details.
  • By Train – Japan Railway’s Rail Pass is an excellent option, available for 7, 14 or 21 days and MUST BE PURCHASED OUTSIDE JAPAN. It can be used on the bullet trains, available from Tokyo, Shinagawa and Ueno stations. It can also be used on the city JR lines, but not the subway lines. See below for links for train schedules, fares and other information.
  • Hitch-hiking – Although hitch-hiking in Japan is relatively easy, and you might have gotten an easy ride in to Tokyo, it is NOT easy hitch-hiking out. Your best bet is to take a train to a more rural destination - think at least an hour's ride away from the city. Yoga station on the Den-en-toshi line not far from Shibuya has a highway entrance nearby, but it is not an easy place to get people to stop for you. WikiTravel's Hitchhiking in Japan article provides a good overview.

Inside Tokyo

Trains are the most popular mode of transportation in Tokyo. There are a number of companies operating in the city. Japan Rail East (JR) is the largest operator running 36 above-ground lines, both local trains and expresses out of the city. Tokyo Metro (9 lines) and Toei (4 lines) are the two main subway companies. Train and subway lines by these three companies are all color-coded. There are many other lines, many of which connect to the subway lines as they reach the outskirts of Tokyo and come above ground. All of the stations in the city are in English/Japanese, with larger stations sometimes offering Chinese and Korean.

Printed English maps are sometimes hard to get while in the city. However, Airport information booths will be able to provide an English or Korean Metro/Toei/JR map. They will also be able to provide an English or Korean JR map.

Intra-city travel options:

  • Japan Rail (English Map - PDF) – Best used with the JR Rail Pass, JR trains will take you almost anywhere. The Yamanote (green) loop is the most convenient train in the city. Yamanote stops at most of the major areas in the city. Minimum JR fare is 130yen.
  • Bus – Reliable but slow, it is recommended to use trains instead. Flat rate of 200 or 210yen inside the city, with a late-night surcharge after 10pm.
  • Taxi – Very expensive, fares start at 710yen and increase quickly after 2Km. If you miss your last train, however, this is your only transportation option.

For an almost all inclusive day pass (unlimited JR East, Tokyo Metro, Toei subways/trains, and Toei buses inside Tokyo) look into the Tokyo Free Ticket (1580yen). -CS Warning- This is an expensive ticket. Check restrictions and plan your day accordingly. For most day trips to one or two locations you will probably NOT get your moneys worth.

What to see and do in Tokyo

The Tokyo skyline including Tokyo Tower (L) and the Imperial Palace (R)

Places and sights

Tokyo is usually every visitor's first stop in Japan. It's one of the world's largest and most advanced cities. The city has been rebuilt several times, but still retains some of it's traditional charm. Metropolitan Tokyo can be divided into two general areas. To the south and west is the Yamanote area, the port area full of skyscrapers, shopping districts, and all the entertainment one can handle; to the north and east is Shitamachi, a more traditional area that retains buildings and shrines from the past three or four hundred years, along with small town shopping and eateries. For a detailed view, please see the CouchSurfing Tokyo map at Google Maps.

Yamanote Area (Downtown)

Though there is no exact definition, the Yamanote area runs from approximately Ginza to Shinjuku. It was once home to many of Edo's (Tokyo's old name) elite samurai. Although there are certainly other notable areas, this article provides links to only the most popular CS places.

- CS - CS recently hosted hanami (cherry blossom viewing) in nearby Shinjuku-Gyoen park.
- CS - Not far from Shinjuku in Takadanobaba, the CS Tokyo Group holds regular gatherings at a Mexican bar called Cantina. Check the Tokyo Group board to see if a gathering is coming up.
- CS - Many CSers gather in Shibuya, meeting at the famous Hachiko statue, and continue on to restaurants, bars, and clubs. You can always find somebody willing to meet you in Shibuya.
  • Roppongi - Roppongi is a famous area for tourists and foreigners living in Tokyo alike.
- CS - Because it is so foreigner friendly, there are often group excursions to Roppongi, often staying out all night at the clubs.
- CS - It's rare to meet a CSer who doesn't want to or hasn't visited Tsukiji Market. It shouldn't be hard to gather a small group even if you came to Tokyo alone. It's often closed on Sundays/public holidays & Wednesdays. Check the calendar (holidays are marked in red) before you go.
- CS - There were a couple of CS picnics/mini-get-aways held at Hama Rikyu Garden nearby, which is a little oasis in the concrete jungle. You can enjoy informal tea-ceremony at the tea house in the garden for 500yen. From the garden, you can catch a boat to Asakusa, or Yurikamome (monorail) to Odaiba.
- CS - At least one CSer's birthday was celebrated watching the sunrise come up over the bay after a long night of partying at the clubs.

Shitamachi Area (Old Tokyo)

Shitamachi literally means "Down Town," but this shouldn't be confused with "downtown" meaning city center. While Yamanote occupied a place on the Musashino Plateau, Shitamachi was the physically lower area to the northeast. This article will discuss: Ueno/Okachimachi, Akihabara, Asakusa, and Yanaka/Nezu/Sendagi. The famous food of Tokyo's Shitamachi is monja.

- CS - Another must-see for CSers. The shopping may not be super exciting everytime for hosts, but if you treat them to a crazy fun time at a maid-cafe, you might find yourself a guide.
- CS - Zakuro, a Turkish/Persian restaurant near Nippori Station (West Exit), is a popular party venue for Tokyo CSers. The all-you-can-eat menu, free belly dancing shows, and smoking shisha (flavored tobacco) for dessert is an irresistibly good time.
- CS - At least one CSer has been quoted saying, "This town made me like Tokyo."

Off the beaten track

Tokyo has many hidden treasures. Not far from Ueno and Nippori, the area around Nezu and Sendagi stations on the Chiyoda metro line is filled with winding streets and cool cafes and shops, all in traditional architecture. Great for an evening stroll.

Not far to the west of the city is the café enclave of Shimo-Kitazawa. Direct trains go from Shibuya and Shinjuku stations. The area is filled with cool cafes and shops, as well as some galleries.

With advance planning, there is currently a free guide service being offered in Tokyo: Tokyo Free Guide

Culture and entertainment

Tokyo is a big city and most of the time something is going on - sometimes even for free. There are a few good sites and publications for entertainment and nightlife. Check out:

Food

Eating in Tokyo isn't as expensive as you'd think - as long as you know where to go! For those on a budget all the time, look for shops with ticket machines (noodle shops, curry houses, and other Japanese fast food restaurants). Water or tea is free - sometimes even soup or salad - and a meal shouldn't cost you more than 500-1000yen. Of course, Western fast food is abundant as well. McDonald's, KFC, and Wendy's are everywhere. The focus on these places is more on food, less on fast, but it's still not gourmet!

Sit down food can also be affordable. It's easy to afford higher end restaurants in places like Shinjuku or Shibuya if you go during their lunch special (usually 800-1200yen). "Izakayas” (Japanese taverns) provide various items on their menus, often lots of seafood, and the beers can be a real bargain. “Tengu” is probably the most popular chain of these, found near many stations in central Tokyo. Check out the list (with URLs) of izakayas at Secret Japan. Small, sometimes open-air shops targeting Japanese business men often have good deals; these are popular in Ueno/Okachimachi and Shimbashi/Yurakucho (near Tokyo Station). Many of them are located under the train tracks.

A quick option - convenience stores are everywhere, and it is common to pick up a rice ball or two and yogurt from one and eat it in a nearby park.

For more general food guide, Tokyo Food Page has a good list of restaurants in Tokyo, categorized both by the area and by cuisine.

If you are a vegetarian, Tokyo Vegetarian Guide, Vege-Navi.jp and Vege Tokyo will make your vegetarian life in Tokyo easier.

Drinks

Around Roppongi, Shibuya, and Shinjuku you’ll find more western-style “bars”. Common chains are Hub, Dubliners, and TGI Fridays (restaurant and bar). Hobgoblin is a smaller English-pub chain. Also look for "standing bars" (tachi-nomiya) which are similar in feel to western-style pubs and often attract foreigners and English-speaking Japanese patrons. If you want to meet locals, duck into any small shop with a beer sign or a lantern lit up late at night. You probably won't find an English menu, but it's all about adventure, right? If you really just want to drink, the absolute cheapest option is to grab some beers or sake from a convenience store or liquor store and drink them in a nearby park. As long as you're not too rowdy, no one will bother you, and it is not illegal.

- CS - Because they allow people to move around and mingle and beers are often just 300yen, many CS gatherings will stop at a standing bar before heading to the clubs.

Sumo

Sumo is one of Japanese national sports. A Sumo tournament is held in every odd number month (Jan., Mar., May, July, Sep. & Nov), and matches in Tokyo ("Honbasho") are in Jan, May & Sep. It usually starts on the 2nd Sunday and ends on the 4th Sunday. For more information on schedules, venues and ticket sales, see Sumo Association official website.

Advance tickets are available at many different ticket venders and some travel agencies, about 2 months in advance of the tournament. Prices vary depending on the proximity to the ring, approx. 3,500 yen to 10,000 yen+ per person. Closer seats are "boxes" for 2 to 6 people. There are also about 350 general admission tickets (non-reserved seats, 2,100 yen), sold at 8am on the day of the matches. Tickets sell out quickly on weekends, especially the last 2 days of the tournament.

The venue opens at about 8am, and matches go on the entire day, about 8:30am to 6:00pm. Starting with lower ranked wrestler matches, higher level (Makuuchi) wrestler fights start at about 3:30pm with an entering ceremony. With its historical relation with Shinto religion, there are a couple of other rituals in-between the matches. The entire tournament ends with a prize award ceremony for the grand champion of the tournament on the last day (15th day).

When tournaments are not in session, it is still possible to see sumo wrestlers in training by visiting one of the many sumo stables (sumobeya) in the city. Entry is free, but visitors are expected to remain silent while in the stable and never to enter the training area; photography, so long as it does not involve a flash, is usually permitted. Training typically begins at 5:00 a.m. and lasts until nine or ten, with the high-rank wrestlers training later than the others. A map of various sumo locations in the city can be found here: [1] Note that although training usually occurs everyday (so long as there is no tournament), there is no guarantee that they will be training on a given day.

Queer Tokyo

Tokyo has the greatest concentration of gay bars in one area than any other city in the world. The area is in the heart of Shinjuku, in district no. 2, known as “ni-chome”. Although there are hundreds of bars, they are mostly private and exclusive to their own clientele (if you are not Japanese or don’t speak Japanese, it may be impossible to enter). However, there are some particular establishments frequented by Tokyo’s international gay and lesbian crowds (listed below). Also, some larger clubs in various locations in Tokyo host gay mega-parties throughout the year, for example "Shangri-la" at Ageha.

An excellent link for foreigner-friendly gay and lesbian bars and clubs in Tokyo: JapanVisitor.com Includes an interactive map and bar listing.

Bars

The best starting point and most popular venue is Advocates Café —a very small café that opens on to a street corner. Open daily from 6pm with English-speaking staff. It is by far the best place to be from 6-9pm, with a friendly crowd made up of locals, long-term ex-pats, travelers, occasional flight crew and more.

For ni-chome's only non-smoking bar, check out Usagi, run by an ex-GB (see below) barman. Smoking friends can use the balcony.

For men only, international guests are welcome at GB. Basically a pick up bar, English is spoken by staff and patrons on the prowl.

For women only, the most popular among the international clientele is Kinswomyn.

Dancing

For dancing, Annex and Arty Farty (get your hand stamped for entry to both venues) offer cozy dance spaces and are open all night. Arty Farty tends to get very crowded on Friday and Saturday nights. Weeknights can be very quiet, but the DJs will be there with bells on.

Mobile Phones

See the Mobile Phones section of the Japan country page for more information.

Additional links

Overview of Tokyo - Japan Guide - Tokyo Government Website (English)

Weather - Japan Guide Weather - Yahoo! Weather - Average temperatures

Information about Narita - Narita Layover Page - Sleeping in Airports, Narita

Sections to be written

Long term Living accommodations

Koban (Police stations)

Recommended restaurants

Nightlife & karaoke

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